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- • PORTRAIT Crizia Restaurant - Buenos Aires
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- ► June (4)
- Wednesday, 05 April 2017 10:30 | Written by Matthias Tesi Baur
1. Tesi: Dear Michael, you are the Managing Director of chateau Schloss Gobelsburg. Can you tell me more about you and your love for wine?
Michael: Born and raised in a Relais & Chateaux Hotel in the Arlberg skiing area (Hotel Post, Lech) I was early confronted with wine, especially as my father was cofounder of the first Austrian Sommelier association. The first really deep impression was set with a bottle of JL Chave Hermitage 1986 that my brother from his stage at Maison Pic in Valence. But I decided to go into wine after my brother took over the family business.
2. Tesi: Working in the wine industry is planning the way to the future or more preserving the tradition – which statement is more true?
Michael: Maybe both – The Austrian composer Gustave Mahler said once Tradition does not mean to pray the ashes, it means to keep the fire alive. So in preserving traditions we need to develop the future.
3. Tesi: The wine market has changed in the last 20 years. Especially the increased interest from Chinese buyers has influenced the market and prices. Where do you see the wine market in 10 years?
Michael: If you are considering not only the past 20 years, but the last two or three hundert years, we see that the market has always moved and developed. Trends are coming and going and also the value and reputation of certain production areas have gone up and down. There are many aspects that could be mentioned under that question, but for the future it will be important that producers do not lose the sense for common interest. In our world of individualism many producers put a lot of effort in trying to create brands, which are in most cases lost energy in respect of their areas and the marketing of their origin.
In the same sense I see that in most cases the loss of identity in an area is in connection with the attempt to copy other stiles. Tignanello and Ornellaia are examples of trying to create a copy of Bordeaux and in being successful to their proprietors, it leaded to a fundamental crisis of the Chianti area.
So the question is: are the most successful areas the ones who are the most flexible, or the once who stick to their authentic values and stiles?
4. Tesi: Close your eyes and remember the moment you had for the first time in your life a great wine. What did you felt?
Michael: Harmony – and this still counts for me for all great wines in the world. A great wine is not an impressive wine. A great wine for me starts at the moment, when I stop analyzing, at the moment when I can accept that there is no further consideration necessary and I can just poorly enjoy.
5. Tesi: What does good food mean to you?
Michael: maybe I could repeat my answer above – Harmony. In that respect I am a big fan of Japan and their understanding of great culinary art.
Matthias Tesi Baur
Biography Michael Moosbrugger:
Michael Moosbrugger (*1966) was born and raised in the skiing resort Lech/Arlberg where his family still runs the Relais & Chateau Hotel Gasthof Post. He attended the University in Salzburg and was also educated in the Hotel and Restaurant trade in Austria and Switzerland. In 1992 he began his apprenticeship in winemaking at Salomon and Jamek estates. After completing his education he took over the responsibility of Schloss Gobelsburg winery in 1996. At Schloss Gobelsburg numerous innovations were introduced by him, for example his invention of the 'Dynamic cellar concept' for which he developed the 'Cask on wheels'. Michael's special interest lies in identifying old genuine vines, which is the basement of a winery that produces authentic wines. He has thoroughly studied traditional winemaking techniques and the history of winemaking which he applies on certain selected varieties and resulted in the 'TRADITION' wines.
Awards: He was awarded by the Austrian Fine Wine Magazine 'Falstaff' 'Winemaker of the year 2006', in 2007 the winery was awarded with the 'Golden Glas' of Sweden and 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2013 the winery was awarded by the American 'Wine & Spirits' magazine as 'Top 100 Winery of the year'